Ugali and ginger beer: Tanzania, part three

Yes, Tanzanians really do say "Hakuna Matata" ala Disney's "The Lion King." And they mean it. The pace of life in Tanzania - even in the big cities - is much slower. And, things happen that throw a monkey wrench in your plans when you can't do much about it except laugh, throw up your hands, and wait by the side of the road.

For example, we were coming back from a rainy respite at Jambiani, a town on the East coast of Zanzibar, rushing to get Emily to an appointment. We stopped the rental car for gas, and it turned out that the attendant (there are ALWAYS gas station attendants in Tanzania) filled the unleaded-needing car with diesel. This was bad. A flock of mechanics descended on the vehicle and ended up draining the tank in some mysterious, messy way. All we could do was wait while they tinkered. We listened to the throbbing Bongo Flava coming out of speakers in a market across the street.

Life is difficult in Tanzania - roads aren't always the best, cars and shoes are often old, and people are often short of money. Even so, every single Tanzanian we met (including random strangers like the airline baggage guys) were friendly and willing to sit down, chat and share a cold Stoney Tangawizi ginger beer.

One of my favorite experiences was visiting Kisakasaka, a village about an hour and a half outside of Zanzibar town. It's a tiny place. There's no electricity, running water or any paved anything. Emily spent a few months there when she first came to Zanzibar, and the family she stayed with helped her learn Swahili. They were so excited to see her again and took us on a walking tour of the village. The kids marveled at the digital camera while we drank coconut juice in a tiny living room.

We also were fortunate enough to meet family of Hukwe Zawose in Bagamoyo, a town north of Dar es Salaam on the mainland coast. It's a laid-back coastal town known for its culture - music and dance especially. Emily studied with the legendary Zawose family, and we were able to go meet them at their home. On the outskirts of town, their compound is a collection of houses and workshops where children and grandchildren live. Most play music and make some of their own instruments. We were led through rooms full of ilimba (finger marimbas) and other instruments. Emily and I sat with the kids and the women, shucking greens while Derek got a lesson in the violin, or izezs.

In Bagamoyo, we stayed with Mary, owner of "Mary's Nice Place" guesthouse. She's a firecracker of a woman who originally moved to Bagamoyo from her region in southern Tanzania to teach dance. She let us into her home and kitchen, where we learned how to make chapatis (Indian fladbread) and a special kind of Tanzanian pastry. She also made us ugali, one of the most common dishes East Africa. It's a starchy mass that you form with your hands and dip into sauce. She laughed and pointed at me when I accidentally ate with my left hand (a big no-no).

It's always great perspective to be able to see how other people live, and we were really lucky to have glimpse into Tanzaninan life.